THE CUTTERS

Your favourite garment

A great coat in 32oz green twill, with Tattersall check lining

Your style icon

Robert Couturier & Grace Jones

The cloth of your dreams

Golden Bale Super 100 twill overcoating

Where would you send the Huntsman for cocktails and Dinner in London

Dinner: St John, Clerkenwell. Cocktails: Claridge’s Bar.

If there were a Huntsman car

Austin-Healey

If there were a Huntsman movie

The Graduate

If there was a Huntsman book

It would be Kolymsky Heights by Lionel Davidson

A record you would play in the shop

Bill Evans, Peace Piece

Favourite play

A View from the Bridge

Favourite cologne

Frederic Malle, Musc Ravageur

If not passionate about tailoring, what would you be?

I’d be a carpenter

What is the first thing you do to start your day? 

At the start of each day, I usually check my diary to ensure that nothing has changed from the day before. 

As a cutter what is the most necessary part of your day?

Being present and available during the day is the most important. As we deal with many different clients throughout the day I have to ensure that I am available to oversee and be ready if anything is needed. 

When are you most inspired?

Well, I am inspired by two main things: one is when I am cutting patterns and the second is when I talk to clients regarding their orders. When a client has commissioned a bespoke order they feel very excited about they always come up with ideas and I enjoy being part of the process. 

What is your favourite cloth to work with and why?

It really differs but I would have to say I have a very classic taste so flannel is my favourite cloth to work with. The fabric looks, hangs, and drapes beautifully and it lends itself very well to hand-tailoring which is very important when it comes to the whole bespoke process. 

Having been at Huntsman for some time and being a Co-Head cutter, what has changed the most over the years?

Social Media has played a major impact in bespoke tailoring and how it has evolved. From the way that people's tastes have changed to the way, bespoke tailoring is discussed. People are learning more and more about this craft which is great to see how this industry is evolving over time. 

What advice would you give to future cutters?

My advice would be to trust your eyes as much as your measurements. Often, cutters have to adapt their tailoring to the client's body to make the garments more aesthetically pleasing and that means trusting your instincts and skills to do so. 

What makes bespoke tailoring unique?

Bespoke tailoring is unique because it is still a handcraft. Everything that we do, from the stitches to the cutting of the patterns is made by hand. Every aspect of commissioned suits we make is very detailed. We treat commissioned clients on an individual basis, asking necessary questions to understand them better but also the requirements they will need from their garment. 

What inspired you to become a cutter?

As a child, when I would walk along Savile Row, I was always mystified by the tailoring houses. It always piqued my interest as you would never see any suits in the window and there was always a curtain creating this sense of mystery. During those times entering a tailoring house was only allowed if you had made an appointment or were recommended by someone. That’s what appealed to me, when I found out more about these tailoring houses I was intrigued by the craft as I always enjoyed constructing things with my hands. 

As a cutter what is the most necessary part of your day?

Honestly, every part of the day is important, although I am definitely a morning person- it’s amazing what can be achieved before noon. Those valuable hours are vital for planning for what I will do with my day.

What are you currently reading?

The Alchemist

When are you most inspired?

My inspiration comes from talking to interesting people, in my role I’m fortunate enough to meet many of them!

Looking forward to spring, what will be a new addition to your wardrobe?

Unstructured two-piece suits

What is your favourite Huntswoman of Tomorrow look?

The Marlene is one of my favourites, it’s timeless and effortlessly chic. I also like the Hepburn, slightly more unconventional, a totally new take on bellows pockets- deeply rooted in Huntsman heritage, with a contemporary twist!

As an educator, what has excited you from your students this year?

Every year brings a new group of students with unique perspectives and big ideas, but what I love most is the commitment and determination that they all share. It’s exciting to be surrounded by so much enthusiasm!

What is unique about bespoke tailoring for women?

The uniqueness comes from our alikeness- every woman wants something that fits perfectly!

What’s the most exciting thing you are working on?

For myself, a totally traditional boiler suit, with plenty of surprises.

What inspired you to become a cutter?

I became a cutter because I wanted to do something practical with my hands and follow a skill-based career that I can develop over time and keep improving.

What is your favourite cloth to work with? Why?

My favourite cloth to work with is a heavy flannel. It has a very beautiful depth to it and the fabric makes for a beautiful, elegant, and timeless garment. 

What advice would you give to future cutters?

Be as curious as possible. Learn the art of making and crafting and spend as much time as you can understanding the construction of different garments. Be as pedantic in your practice, and astute when working with different body types.

What is the most exciting thing about being part of the Huntsman team?

Working alongside people that have shared interests is what makes working at Huntsman exciting. You’re encouraged  to communicate your ideas and it is a healthy environment to share. It’s like being part of a family.

What is the most important part of your day?

Besides lunch, the most important part of my day is going through the diary and knowing what I have planned for the next few weeks. I also enjoy ending each day doing something technical so I can keep the momentum for the day to follow. 

What makes bespoke tailoring unique?

Bespoke tailoring is unique because it is a harmony of ideas between client and cutter. It’s a combination of what the client wants with what the cutter feels looks good. It also allows for clients to choose how they want to present themselves to the world. 

What is your favourite garment? Why?

My favourite garment is a double flannel suit, simply because it is British elegance at its finest.

When are you most inspired? 

I am most inspired when I share ideas with different tailoring friends. It could be at any time of the day, when I’m on the phone or at the pub. The sharing of different ideas and seeing the difference in each person’s philosophy on certain ways that they approach garments or cloths. It might not be your style but when there is an open conversation about it you are able to understand your own style even more.

What is the first thing you do to start off your day?

The first thing I do is listen to music, specifically disco to get me in a creative mood.

What inspired you to become a cutter?

I started my career in high street fashion working in design and found it to be a bit inconsistent. I wanted to go into something that would put my skills to better use. I wanted to be a part of something that was more sustainable that’s why I chose to become a cutter.

With Spring fast approaching, what are you looking forward to the most with Huntsman?

Creating morning wear definitely! I feel that it is the most difficult yet creative garment to work on. Morning suits bring out the “peacock” in a gentleman as it has a very masculine essence.

What is the most important part of your day?

I try to make time every day to sit with the tailors and it's my time to share ideas, I find it a great way to decompress and re-focus myself.

What are you currently working on?

Currently, I am working on a yellow flannel suit which is a very lightweight cloth and black fresco “Balenciaga” inspired trousers for myself.

What is your favourite cloth to work with? Why? 

I really enjoy working with Black Fresco. It is breathable but heavy and allows for a more structured finish look because of its density.

When are you most inspired? 

My inspiration comes from all the different people I meet. When I talk to people outside of the trade about tailoring and am able to bounce off ideas from different creative industries. I also feel inspired when I talk to people from different cultural backgrounds because you learn about different traditional dress and I stand by the statement that fashion should be functional. Functionality is different depending on each person and learning how each person perceives functionality allows you to understand different perspectives.

What is the first thing you do to start off your day?

Coffee and emails. I like to get the admin out of the way first thing so that I can focus on cutting and fitting undisturbed throughout the day.

What originally inspired you to work in bespoke tailoring? What inspires you today? 

I’ve always had a love for clothes, and for style more generally, I suppose. I found myself working in menswear and feeling a pull towards the smarter end of the wardrobe, the ability for tailoring to sculpt a wealth of differing silhouettes. I’m in love with a poem called ‘Style’ by American poet Charles Bukowski; it perfectly illustrates the importance of style as a mindset or way of being. So, for me, inspiration is more about drawing from everyday life and connecting and working with customers to shape their own sense of style.

What is your favourite cloth to work with and why? 

I love high-twist wool. It has structure and breathability and stays looking sharp for the whole day. I wear it year-round, from the hottest days of summer to the layered outfits of deep winter. Traditionally, it’s only been available in the classic grey and blue colourways, but cloth merchants are now producing a kaleidoscopic range of colours. The more melange iterations lend themselves to being a great alternative to linen if you want a suit that has the visual texture but not the innumerable creasing.

What is your favourite garment and why? 

That would be my navy DB jacket cut in raw silk. The colour lends itself to timeless versatility, while the matte silk’s slubby texture adds a uniqueness that allows it to be worn in a more casual, louche way. I wear it with everything from the classic shirt, tie, and mid-grey trouser combination to wide-leg chinos, a Breton stripe T-shirt, and a neckerchief.

What has been the most exciting project or individual commission to be a part of? 

For me, it was making two suits for someone as a 21st birthday gift. It was lovely to have the honour of introducing someone to the bespoke process and seeing their enjoyment not only at the end of the process but also right from the initial consultation and through all the fittings. 

In your career, what is the most important thing you have learnt so far? 

Patience. It’s what the bespoke process deserves. Approximately 80-100 hours of labour go into making a two-piece suit, which involves the hands of seven or so craftspeople. Everyone involved needs to be able to give that dedicated focus to the job at hand, and rushing or taking shortcuts rarely equates to quality.

What is the most exciting thing about being part of the Huntsman team?

For me, it is about contributing to the history of the Huntsman story and, as the largest tailoring house on the street, to the wider profile of Savile Row internationally.

What makes bespoke tailoring unique?

Bespoke tailoring is the union of an immersive customer experience with craftsmanship, one built on collaboration. I’m not sure it is truly unique, but it is certainly rare for the customer to be invited to design their own garment with the guidance and experience of the cutter. As craftsmen, it is also special to make garments from start to finish under the same roof; this gives us the ability to communicate as a team and use our collective skills to produce the most beautiful garments.

What is a mantra you live by?

“What does the process require of me?” It’s more of a question that I can ask myself if facing a difficult situation or problem. It’s a play on “Trust the Process” and allows me to remove my own emotions and ego from the situation to find the best solution from a more objective angle. A useful skill in tailoring, as well as in the wider context of daily life.

As an undercutter what is the most important part of your day?

One of the most important parts of my day is preparing for clients and keeping myself organised. 

What do you think makes Huntsman unique as a tailor?

Huntsman is one of the oldest tailoring houses on Savile Row and we have a rich and diverse history. The house cut is iconic, on the row and around the world. I also feel that the abundance of different house tweeds makes Huntsman truly one of a kind.

What is the most exciting thing you are working on?

Currently, I am working on a greatcoat which is a military-inspired coat with a patrol back.

What is your favourite garment? Why? 

My favourite garment is a heavy weight linen suit, because it is a comfortable and breathable fabric which also takes more character than other types of garments.

Working with Dario, what has been an important lesson you’ve learnt so far?

One of the most important lessons I’ve learnt so far is when drafting a pattern, Dario thinks about how the tailors would approach the garment and how they would put it together. This helps with ensuring no mistakes will be made, because if we make a mistake during the cutting stage then the tailors will be affected as well. Bespoke tailoring is a collaboration between everyone and is seen through the cumulative work and effort put in.

What is your favourite cloth to work with? Why?

I love working with mid-weight tweeds. They tailor beautifully, and the right choice of tweed can really flatter an individual's silhouette. 

What project are you looking forward to working on the most in the upcoming year? 

I am excited to be working on the Morning Suits for Ascot this year!

What is unique about bespoke tailoring? 

 Bespoke tailoring gives people a certain sense of confidence that cannot be found in any other type of garment. Bespoke garments fit a person to their exact measurements and thus, makes them feel comfortable in their own skin, regardless of age, shape or size. It is a beautiful experience and I always find such satisfaction seeing a client in a bespoke suit I cut. 

What is the first thing you do to start off your day?

Before work I usually enjoy going to the gym, it helps me start off my day and carry out that energy throughout.

What inspired you to go into bespoke tailoring?

I consider myself a very detail-oriented and creative individual. I wanted an outlet where I could create something special and bespoke tailoring is just that.

What is your favourite cloth to work with and why?

My favourite cloth is a 26oz overcoating from Fox Brothers. It is a very heavy fabric to work with and very durable. But being able to work with this fabric you can bend it and manipulate it to create beautiful garments. It almost feels as though it is bulletproof (but it isn’t really).

What is your favourite garment and why?

My favourite garment is the Nylon bomber jacket, a flight jacket I have had it for 10 years and it still looks new.

What has been the most exciting project to be a part of?

One of my favourite projects to be a part of has been the Daniel W. Fletcher collaboration. It was lovely to be able to work with someone who knows so much about bespoke tailoring but is also not afraid to deviate and adapt it. The project was familiar but unconventional which I thoroughly enjoy. I like things that are in the realms of tradition but have a more interesting flare and are able to manipulate fabric to create something bold.

Being Campbell’s undercutter, what is the most important thing you have learnt so far?

Organisation is key! Campbell has taught me a lot of things and one of the most vital is that being organised will help in the long run. As Campbell is also the Creative Director, there are days when I need to step in for fittings and it is vital that I can make sure everything is in order.

What is the most exciting thing being part of the Huntsman team?

To work at Huntsman, you have to be a very skilled tailor or cutter and there are a lot of people that are always willing to help and work with. Cutter to cutter there is always an exchange of ideas on how to approach garments which makes it exciting to constantly learn new techniques.

What makes bespoke tailoring unique?

Bespoke tailoring is unique because you have to approach each and every client differently. No body is the same, and as such it is important to know the rules but be able to trust your ability in the art to bend them and make them fit the client.

What is the first thing you do to begin your day?

The first thing I do when I begin my day would be to first make myself a strong coffee. I then plan my day ahead for all the fittings and jobs that I will need to attend to.

What originally inspired you to work into bespoke tailoring, what inspires you today?

I was originally inspired to work in Bespoke Tailoring specialising in the subject at University, graduating with First Class Honors. Now being in the industry, It’s so inspiring to work in an establishment such as Huntsman with so much heritage and style.

What is your favourite cloth to work with and why?

My favourite cloth to work with would be Tweed. I love the handle and variety of patterns it comes in. In particular I do enjoy looking at our glorious range of House Tweeds.

What is the favourite garment you own and why?

The favourite garment I own would be a Savile Row Bespoke Overcoat from the 1960’s. I love the look of tailored layers and the long length silhouette. I also found it at a local London Charity Shop for £10.

What has been the most exciting project or individual commision to be a part of?

The most exciting project that I have been commissioned to do would be to embroider a daisy on a Bespoke Ladies Cloak top button. It’s adding that personal touch to the bespoke craft, which I really love.

In your career, what is the most important thing you have learnt so far?

The most important thing I have learnt so far is to have the determination to take on any challenge and achieve the best possible outcome.

What is the most exciting thing being part of the Huntsman team?

The most exciting thing about being part of the Huntsman Team would be the fact that I am surrounded by Experts of their craft, being able to discuss ideas and for them to have a major influence on my apprenticeship here.

What makes bespoke tailoring unique?

The thing that makes Bespoke Tailoring unique is that you have a garment that lasts a lifetime, have something made exactly to your measurements and have something that gives you an enormous amount of comfort.

What is the first thing you do to start off your day?

I always grab a coffee to wake myself up on my way to the office while organising a to-do list in my head, and start the day with the greetings of bundles in the trimming room!

What inspired you to go into bespoke tailoring?

I have done internships for 4 different fashion companies for the last 6 years up until I graduated from my Master’s degree in menswear last year. It was very interesting to work in an extremely fast-paced design industry, but from the bottom of my heart I had a strong craving to create something that could last a lifetime and doesn’t lose its elegance which drew me into the world of tailoring. I would like to explore the genuine meaning of what “High-end Bespoke Tailoring” is while I am working here.I get inspiration from people on the street as I love people watching, and imagining what type of lifestyle they might have always intrigues my imagination. I think London is the best city for doing this as it is full of diversity, and I would say Savile Row is the street of great style.

What is your favourite cloth to work with and why?

My favourite cloth to work with is definitely Huntsman house tweed. Not only are they aesthetically beautiful and in sophisticated quality, but it shows the Huntsman's heritage. Also, the fact that it can be exclusively made at Huntsman makes it much more special. When I see people wearing suits in house tweed, I recognize that it’s from Huntsman straight away and it makes me feel proud of where I work now.

What is your favourite garment and why?

Navy wool cashmere blended jacket and a matching skirt are my favourite garments. They are very soft and lightweight while it keeps me warm.

What is the most important thing you have learnt so far?

Communication is the main skill I’ve learnt since I’ve started working at Huntsman. As a trimmer, most of my work requires me to communicate with cutters, tailors, suppliers, pressers, and even our US team based in New York. It really helps me to have a broader perspective and a big picture of how the company runs, and moreover, it teaches me a lot about the bespoke tailoring industry as well.

What is the most exciting thing being part of the Huntsman team?

I am so excited that I am in the position where I could communicate and bridge all different departments in the company. I am always welcomed to ask any questions and share my ideas whenever I need to, which I think is the greatest part of working here. It is also reflected in my trimming role as well, as I feel like I am putting magical trimming tools to bridge the 2D cloth bundles that cutters passed to me to become a 3D garment by the hands of tailors.

What makes bespoke tailoring unique?

Unlike Ready-to-wear, which you need to fit yourself into an already constructed garment, the fact that the wearer is the main “subject” and could be highly involved in the process of creating the garment is the most unique part of bespoke tailoring. They can choose cloth and lining depending on their personal preference, and choose all the details reflecting their lifestyle and practicality. It affects a lot of my trimming work because I need to customise each bundle and none of them are the same. The details of the garments have a storytelling of the person.

What makes bespoke tailoring unique?

Unlike Ready-to-wear, which you need to fit yourself into an already constructed garment, the fact that the wearer is the main “subject” and could be highly involved in the process of creating the garment is the most unique part of bespoke tailoring. They can choose cloth and lining depending on their personal preference, and choose all the details reflecting their lifestyle and practicality. It affects a lot of my trimming work because I need to customise each bundle and none of them are the same. The details of the garments have a storytelling of the person.

What is a mantra you live by?

“The one who was born a genius can't win against the one who tries, and the one who tries can't win against the one who enjoys.” - Confucius